How To Get Rid Of The Parts Department Middle Man Part II

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April 23, 2014—PartsTrader announced Wednesday that it has completed the national deployment of its electronic parts procurement system. When PartsTrader first rolled out in 2013, a considerable amount of opposition was met almost immediately. The reason for this opposition was due to the system’s inclusion of State Farm Insurance’s Select Service DRP.

State Farm was quick to get on-board, so much so that their Select Service shops are required to use the parts procurement system in a number of states. This was met with a great deal of negative response and two associations in particular, Automotive Service Association and the Alliance of Automotive Service Providers of New Jersey, jumped right in voicing their opinions.

This is exactly what the state of Ohio is fighting. They have created a Bill that will not allow insurance companies to have favorites such as the Select Service Shops list mentioned above. If the Bill passes, all collision repair shops will be able to have DRP affiliations with the insurance companies. You may want to read up on that before you get too excited. Insurance companies pay so little for the collision repair that they may bleed you dry.

Now, regardless of direct repair program affiliations, PartsTrader fairly provides a platform that positions repairers at the center of the parts procurement process. As a matter of fact, PartsTrader CEO Rob Cooper says “We are committed to giving repairers and suppliers a product of choice by continuing to adapt it to their changing needs. Earlier this year we introduced the industry’s first system for tracking two-way repairer and supplier performance feedback. For example, repairers now have the ability to rate suppliers based on service and quality of the parts delivered. This ensures that each party can make a fully informed business decision before placing or responding to an order. Most recently, we’ve enhanced vehicle mapping capabilities and improved integration with the estimating systems, and have many more exciting features on the near term horizon.”

How To Get Rid Of The Parts Department Middle Man Part I

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How much would you appreciate not having to go to the part store for parts of any kind? No more standing in line waiting your turn, interrupting your day and work progress, the list goes on and on. The benefits are tremendous and far outweigh any previous experience. As a PDR Technician, your parts needs may be less than say a body shop or a mechanic. But imagine if you will, that you are quoting a vehicle for collision repair and already you see that there are parts that will need to be replaced. Once you have removed the dents there is collateral damage, such as the running lights or the headlight frame and even the bulb. True, you may not have physically fixed these areas but that doesn’t mean that once you do repair the area that you are responsible for fixing is perfect but the hardware no longer is.

Imagine again, that you are at a customer’s home and you are quoting a job. By now you have enough experience to know that you will need these parts to complete the whole finished product. Fortunately for you, PartsTrader is just a click away. You submit what you need, and you receive a response within 15 minutes. You may receive several bids. All you have to do now is let your customer know how much the parts will be and they can sign off on it. Place your order and the parts are at your door within a couple of days. How much easier can it get?

PartsTrader is an electronic parts procurement system that had its initial pilot launch just over 25 months ago. Since that time 750,000 quote requests have been processed and one million orders have been confirmed click here to find out more. The initial national rollout began in August 2013 with the real roll out this past April 17th.  Collision repairers and even parts suppliers have access to this program in all 48 continental states and the District of Columbia.




PDR Technician: A Journey Through Clearcoat Maintenance For The Detailer Part XII

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First and foremost, you have to understand that when it comes to the polishes and cleaners that you use, you don’t want to use anything that is abrasive, NEVER! Now to address Industry Terms that quite often are confused and used to mean the same thing. Polishes and Glazes. These are not the same yet many detailing pros will use them as if they are the same. In one day, depending on their mood, they could quite easily use both. Maybe in the morning it’s glaze and then after lunch, for the same job, they will call it polish.

Whatever you do and which ever product you are using, you must ensure that it is not abrasive. Don’t get caught trying to use a product because it is faster. If it’s abrasive, you could cut straight through the clearcoat. The only good thing that can come out of that is that at least you finished the job in half the time. Get ready to go to court though, because it is quite likely you will have made your customer quite mad.

A polish is a minimally abrasive cleaner and luster process. A cleaner, more aggressive than a polish, contains chemical cleaning agents. The very worse in abrasives, is going to be a compound. You can use these on older vehicles that do not have clearcoat and will get the job done quite quickly. This of course if you are removing rust and need to take the pigment all the way down to the metal.

The use of compounds on a clearcoat is fatal. The minute particles of pumice, which gives the compound its cutting action, cut little holes in the clearcoat. What you will get as a result of using this are swirl marks that are difficult to remove, and sometimes impossible.

Okay, one more post to go and you will be one of the most informed Auto Detailing professional in your area.

PDR Technician: A Journey Through Clearcoat Maintenance For The Detailer Part IX

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To further prove my point about the car washes or the use of detergents, professional car detailers (PDR Technicians) will use detergents to specifically remove the wax or polish because they want to strip it down to the clearcoat so that there is no foggy buildup or lumps. So if they are using it to remove the waxes on purpose, then it’s counterintuitive to think that it’s okay to use detergents if you don’t intend to follow it up with a good wax or polish.

So hopefully I have driven it home, this idea of not using a detergent. Just to be sure, you don’t want to use a detergent unless your intention is to wax or polish your vehicle right after the wash. These waxes or polishes do more than just make your vehicle look good, they also serve as a protective coat that deflects debris while driving. It could be debris such as stones which might otherwise chip the finish. It also resists scuffing by somebody rubbing up against it in a parking lot. You can compare it to your kitchens floor. When you put a good wax down and drag a chair across the floor, your floor will not be scratched up. If you have no wax on that same floor and drag the same chair across it you will scratch the floor. The same is said for your car. If you drag something across the un-waxed car, it will scratch the paint. These are just the simple truths.

To wash clearcoats there are several types of washes that you can use. These will all be in liquid form Read Full Report. You never want to use a powder form of any of these washes, no matter what the label says. These tend to not dissolve in the water and the hardened undissolved granules or chunks will scratch your vehicle because they have become an abrasive.




PDR Technician: A Journey Through Clearcoat Maintenance For The Detailer Part VIII

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Now I suppose you would like to know what products you can use for washing your vehicle. First you have to make sure that when selecting a product that the label says something about the type of clearcoat that your vehicle has.

You have probably heard that you can use dishwashing soap to wash the car, and you yourself are probably guilty of it. Think about it, dishwashing soap is used to remove the grease from your dishes, at the very least, this dishwashing soap is removing the wax and/or the silicone. Silicones are available in many vehicle polishes and in some car waxes. If you use dishwashing soap, then you are essentially removing them, which means every time that you use the detergent you have to reapply the polish or wax. This could be pretty awful if you simply don’t have the time to apply either of these.

The very same de-waxing happens every time you put your vehicle through commercial or coin-op car washes. The objective of these car washes is to turn out clean vehicles. These car washes are so rough in application that you can be absolutely sure that your polish or wax is gone. I remember a time that I was so excited about my new car that I swore I would keep it as clean as possible every single day. I would squeeze it into covered parking spaces and when that wasn’t possible, I would cover the entire vehicle. Basically, it became an obsession and the car never went without a wash for more than two consecutive days. As a result, and not too long after, my hood was peeling as well as the top of the car. The clearcoat was peeling, not the polish or wax that I never put on after the wash. After all, in my defense, the sign did say final wax just before the giant blow dryer blew it dry. I’m hoping I’m not the only one who has done this.

PDR Technician: A Journey Through Clearcoat Maintenance For The Detailer Part VII

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When washing or waxing your clearcoat, under no circumstances are you to use any products that are abrasive. Not ever. You must be absolutely sure of this. I cannot emphasize this enough. Any abrasives used with scuff and scar its surface.

The only change to this order is that when your vehicle is taken to a body repair shop, they will use a wet sand process with very fine 1,500 to 2,000 grit rating. Wet sanding enhances the clearcoat finish by removing sags, dust, and other flaws. Once the flaws are removed, the new clearcoat finish is allowed to dry anywhere from 72 hours to 30 days to cure, then, when cured and dry, it is cleaned with a non-abrasive cleaner and then polished. Following that will be the waxing process.

If you are the detailer of this vehicle, and you have had plenty of experience in sanding clearcoat, then you can use a wet sand on the clearcoat to scuffs and scars when literally every option to remove these has been tried. In other words, this is your last ditch effort to fix these blemishes with the purpose of returning the clearcoat to its original new condition.

You need to be absolutely sure that you really have done this on several vehicles. If you have only done this on one car and that was really just watching it being done, you could cause more damage than good and get yourself in a whole lot of trouble with the car owner. Never be so big for your britches that you agree to do something that you know full well you are not skilled enough to do. Not only do you look ridiculous, but your customer can sue you and you could lose everything. I’ve seen it happen and the end result is devastating.

PDR Technician: A Journey Through Clearcoat Maintenance For The Detailer Part VI

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Now that I have you hooked on the somewhat scientific proof by using a window analogy, let’s get you back to the window.

For a new car, the clearcoats protection from ultra-violet rays, keeps the car from fading the way the older cars do. So essentially, if you have a newer model vehicle that has this heavy duty clearcoat, then what you essentially have is a ‘solar window.’

Now it’s your responsibility to keep that solar window clean to maintain the color finish, which the industry calls Distinction of Image (DOI). Basically, the DOI is the deep gloss that you are trying to maintain in your vehicle’s finish.

Now that I have explained this I want to tell you how you can check this on your own vehicle. Take a newspaper or magazine over the finish, if you can read it from its reflection in the finish, then you have depth in clarity in the finish. You will get this same result when you are polishing or waxing the clearcoat, you look into the finish for a reflection of yourself. If there are any detailing or clearcoat flaws, they will show up in your reflected image as wavy or imperfect.

When you are detailing a car, obviously what you are looking for is a slippery wet finish. When you see one of the street racing cars, where so much work has gone into the looks, and of course the engine, the color is quite amazing. Very shiny and wet looking, almost as if you could put your hand into a pool of water. What you are looking at is the window of the clearcoat finish. This amazing look is very difficult to explain, if for instance you were on the phone trying to describe it. What you are left with though, is the result of the clearcoat finish and, if the words are lost in the description, then all you have to do is to look at it to see the beauty that is the clearcoat.

PDR Technician: A Journey Through Clearcoat Maintenance For The Detailer Part V

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What is imperative is that you understand the type of clearcoat that you have on your vehicle. Knowing this information is the first step to understanding how to care for the vehicle.

As of today, there are four basic clearcoat systems and tomorrow there could be six. There are urethane, polyurethane, polyester, and fluorine high-tech clearcoat systems. All are applied to vehicles pretty much the same way, layer after layer. The vehicle starts with the primer coat of against the metal, then one or several coats of color. This would be considered the base coat and as you will note, it can be very thin. Then finally the clearcoat which as you may already realize is very thick.

The color coat can be quite thin in clearcoat finishes because its only purpose is to introduce the color it’s on. This is different when comparing it to the finishes on older vehicles because the color is contained in the final paint layer. The color is pretty thick because it is both the color carrying layer and as the final, protective top coat.

Today’s clearcoat is almost twice as thick as the combined thickness of the primer and the color based coat. It’s not unusual for the clearcoat to have three times the thickness of the color (pigment) coat and sometimes more.

In the next post, we are going to talk about how clearcoat is, or can be, compared to a solar window. First we will think of clearcoat as a window. As viewed through the clearcoat window, the base coat is dull. What illuminates and causes it to have luster are the properties in the clearcoat. Among those properties are screening agents which screen out ultra-violet rays which, in the conventional vehicle finishes, because they don’t have it, the color is bleached out and stripped of its original color.

There’s more, follow me to the next post.

PDR Technician: A Journey Through Clearcoat Maintenance For The Detailer Part IV

 

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So now that I have scared you into washing your vehicle every weekend, now we need to discuss what you should use on your weekend washing. The three most important things to remember are to use the right technique, right products, and the right tools.

The most basic and fundamental truths are that you never, not ever, wash your car in the sun; second is to never wash your car when it is hot. Like after sitting out in the summer sun or going for a drive that has heated up the hood and front side panels.

The first thing that you should do if your car has been just sitting in the sun, is to cool the car off with plain water from the hose. This rinsing will clear away the heaviest of atmospheric pollutants and also the rinsing pre-rinsing cools the finish.

If you don’t pre-rinse the vehicle before washing it then you are adding to the damage already done. You’re adding yet another chemical to the already myriad of chemicals already there.

Let’s talk about why; the chemical activity of many car wash solutions, which includes the detergents causes a chemical reaction that will either leave streaks or burn your finish. So you absolutely must pre-rinse and I’m not talking about a little bit of water here. You need to bring a deluge to your car full of nothing but clean water. Again, the objective is to get rid of as much of the possibly abrasive material, as you can.

Clearly, you can understand that the more that you know about your clearcoat and how to manage it, the better off you will be for having a vehicle that will sustain the sands of time and still come out looking as good as it did the day you bought it.

Next we will discuss the types of clearcoat systems there are.

PDR Technician: A Journey Through Clearcoat Maintenance For The Detailer Part III

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So how do you protect clearcoat from environmental damage? Well first understand that this type of damage should be a real concern for the newer vehicle car owner. While this type of damage exists for the more conventional finishes, it’s far more obvious for the clearcoat finishes.

Examples of environmental damages are if you commute a long distance for your job, or just live in a metropolitan area, your clearcoat is exposed to carbon black from other people’s exhaust will build up over time. In addition, if you live near or drive to an airport then you are subjected to the jet fuel fallout that happens. To this list you can also include states in the Eastern and North Eastern industrial zones. In a continuous fluid state this industrial pollution continues its journey farther south every day, every year. With this environmental damage you can include Acid Rain. No, not Purple Rain. The most common place for Acid Fog is in Southern California. In the industrial north, you will find Acid Snow. Don’t forget the early morning Acid Fog. Basically, every type of precipitation carries with it the threat of Acid fallout which results in clearcoat damage.

If you are not washing your vehicle frequently, then you subject it to more acid fallout. A light rain, morning mist, fog or dew mixes with these Acid particles and creates the moisture that is now on your vehicle. All that you need now is the sun to bake them into your finish. You don’t need a whole lot of sunlight for this baking process to get busy destroying your finish. After all, it is said that some of the most damaging sun is the sun that is behind the foggy clouds. Surely you can see that if you subject your clearcoat finish to this day in and day out acid damage, then you are destroying your finish coat.

There is only one way to prevent this; you must dedicate yourself to washing your car daily. Hopefully, this description will pop up in your mind when on the weekends, you’re just too busy to wash your vehicle.